updated July 13, 2024
I spent a mere two nights in Edinburgh as an introduction to Scotland. Since I’d be in London, it was a fantastic opportunity to explore their northern neighbor. In this post, I will take you through the logistics of how to reach this city and where to stay and finish up with some fantastic recommendations on where to eat. If you will be headed to London as well, don’t miss our First Timers Guide to London!
Transportation to Edinburgh
Firstly, I’ll discuss transportation to Edinburgh. There are a few options when traveling to Edinburgh from London. You could absolutely drive but keep in mind, you’ll want to be comfortable driving on the left side. You could absolutely fly as well but be mindful that you may be limited in direct flights out of Edinburgh if you decide to travel there as the last leg of your UK trip. I decided to take the train in the middle of my London trip, spend 2 nights in Edinburgh, and travel back to London to finish out my trip.
The train ride is quite beautiful and peaceful. While it does take approximately 4 hours and 20 minutes for this journey, when all was said and done, driving and flying would likely have been the same time commitment. I was able to rest and get a bit of writing done on the train therefore, I didn’t mind the journey at all.
I also recently flew to Edinburgh from the US through London and the flight was quite easy, about an hour from London to Edinburgh.
Where to Stay
There is definitely no lack of great options when it comes to accommodations in the city. I’ve stayed in both Airbnb’s in the city as well as a hotel right in the popular Grassmarket area at the foot of the castle. If you opt for an Airbnb, a location on Queen’s Street was a quick stroll from lots of great shopping, coffee, and restaurants. I also stayed in an Airbnb in Stockbridge on a separate visits which was amazing and probably my favorite of the three areas listed here. There are tons of cute coffee and pastry shops in addition to wee wine bars and plenty of basement pubs.
Packing for Scotland
When packing for Scotland, you’ll want to be sure to bring some waterproof layers including an umbrella and waterproof shoes. The first day in Edinburgh was extremely rainy and that was the day I would be touring the castle. Much of the Edinburg Castle experience is outdoors therefore if you aren’t prepared with appropriate clothing, it could make your experience less than ideal.
I would also recommend layering up. While I visited in July, it could get quite chilly on partly cloudy days especially when not in the sunshine. Better to be prepared to peel off a layer than to be cold!
Lastly, regarding packing, be sure to pack sensible shoes. Bonus if they are waterproof as mentioned above. Certain areas of Edinburgh are hilly and if you plan to explore by foot, I can’t stress having comfy shoes.
If you plan to visit the Highland’s or do a hike of Arthur’s Seat, it will be crucial to have smart shoes!
If you are looking to pack carry-on only, be sure to download our free one-week packing checklist.
What to See & Do
There is no lack of beautiful and historic buildings to see in Edinburgh. Simply walking the streets of the Old Town will allow you to take in the true beauty of the town.
A few of my favorites included St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh Castle, and just about every building along the Royal Mile. A great way to experience the city is to head up to Calton Hill which will provide you with sprawling, panoramic views of the city. You will be rewarded after this short uphill walk, don’t miss it! There is even a small restaurant at Calton Hill. I didn’t have a chance to dine here but there is certainly a beautiful view from the dining area.
By coincidence, the first time I visited Edinburgh marked the celebration of King Charles III’s Scottish coronation. This meant there would be a huge procession down the Royal Mile as the King of England, the Queen, and William and Kate would make their way from Holyrood House to St. Gile’s Cathedral. So naturally, I wanted to take full advantage of this moment in history.
Lined up along the Royal Mile with thousands of others, I waved to the King while excited onlookers shouted “God save the King”. It was pretty surreal and a moment I had not planned for but was thankful to have experienced. Having watched The Queen’s funeral procession travel down the Royal Mile just a few months prior on tv, it was amazing to be a part of the crowd I once watched from afar.
This UK visit definitely has me wanting to rewatch The Crown! The Scottish coronation concluded with a 21-gun salute and a flyover.
Edinburgh Castle
I would highly recommend booking your tickets in advance to tour the castle. I opted for the self-guided tour and picked up a headset guide to take along with me. On the tour of the castle, you will have the opportunity to see panoramic views of Edinburgh, the one-o’clock gun salute (every day except Sunday), the war museum, and the military prison amongst others.
The only drawback about the timing of the King’s visit was that since the Crown Jewels were being prepared for his majesty, that meant they weren’t on display during my tour of the castle. I think it was a fair trade though!
Edinburgh Castle has been a part of Scottish history for over a thousand years and is well worth the visit! If you are traveling last minute and can’t get into see the castle, not to worry, it is just as beautiful from the outside!
Staying Active in Edinburgh
Since Edinburgh is super walkable, I took full advantage of exploring by foot. It was a great way to not only see the city but get some steps in. If you are interested, they do have several group fitness classes in town. Weather permitting, you can also hike to the top of Arthur’s Seat near Holyrood House if you are looking to get some exercise outdoors. The view from the top is absolutely stunning!
Food & Drink
Next, I wanted to talk about the food and drink scene in Edinburgh. Maybe I hadn’t prepared myself well enough but I was thoroughly impressed with both the food and the cocktail scene in the city. I enjoyed everything from traditional Scottish fare such as salmon and Cullen skink to inventive modern cuisine using local ingredients.
I’ll start with my experience with some more traditional foods. Although I had been in London already for a few nights, I hadn’t yet tried fish and chips so that was the first order of business after arriving into town.
After touring Edinburgh Castle, I made a quick outfit change and headed out to dinner and drinks. The Uber driver recommended a place called The Alchemist for cocktails and I was excited to see fun and playful concoctions on the menu. From there, it was time to sample the local cuisine. I would highly recommend making a reservation at Howie’s as it was quite crowded on the night I visited.
Following dinner, it was time for another cocktail bar. Bramble was recommended by our Airbnb host and it was another pleasant surprise. With tons of unique options to choose from, it was time to get comfortable in this cozy basement-like lounge. Bramble was not only super cozy but the hip hop was a nice touch. I tried some of the local gin and found Lind and Lime to be super tasty! Turns out, you can also tour the distillery in town which is another great way to spend an afternoon in nearby Leith.
More Food & Drink
The next morning it was over to New Town for breakfast at a super cute spot called The Pantry. The Pantry has both indoor and outdoor seating. The coffee was pretty good and the huge plates of food featured fresh produce and were filling before a full day of exploration. We sat next to a local couple who couldn’t have been nicer. The people of Edinburgh were really just so kind.
Back on the other side of town is a great coffee spot called Wellington. They have a small outdoor seating area or you can take it away. The coffee was spot on!
For dinner, I hit up Borough which was absolutely delicious! (as of July 2024 Borough is closed but may be reopening per reddit, let’s hope!) The menu was on the smaller side but everything I tasted, I loved. From the oysters to the fresh pea dish, everything was super fresh and paired amazingly well with the orange wine. The servers here also couldn’t have been nicer, just a very welcoming place with great food. Borough was sort of like Edinburgh as a whole, very welcoming with great food!
After dinner, I really wanted to check out a speakeasy I had heard about called Panda and Sons. You’ll enter what looks like a barber shop and descend down a few steps where you’ll come to a bookcase. Behind that bookcase, you will find some pretty incredible cocktails in a super comfortable atmosphere! The place gets quite busy so you may have to wait for a table depending on the night and time you visit.
After eating out for several meals, I was delighted to have coffee, yogurt, and fruit served to me in bed. It was just what I needed before headed to the train station to begin the journey back to London.
This quick trip was just long enough to experience a taste of Scotland! After my first trip to Edinburgh, it had me wanting to visit more of Scotland and that is just what I did again in July 2024! Have you been to Scotland? What were the highlights for you, share below in the comments, and be sure to follow @astonishedabroad on Instagram for regular travel and wellness content.